Day 31 & 32 – The end is, literally, in sight

In the final hour cycling today got to see the first sky scrappers since Sydney, 31 days ago. May sound stage to eulogise about, but it was a hell of a thing. Charging down the severe four mile hill from Mundaring to Midland 20 miles off in the haze could see flashes of downtown Perth off through the trees.

Will be glad to get rid of
this little tan line.

I’d have stopped to take a picture, but with multi ton trucks careering down the hill hardly under control both ahead and behind me, no shoulder to speak of, a Cheshire cat grin from ear to ear, and misty eyes (Which for the sake of pride I’m going to attribute to the 42mph I hit downhill, rather than any emotions I may’ve felt) had rather a lot to deal with. Stopping for a snapshot was not really an option.

It was a great great feeling. I’m almost there. Perth CBD, then 10 odd more miles to the Indian Ocean. In fact the day’s been genuinely awesome since Mundaring. I’m a city boy at heart. I love it as you start to feel the gravitational pull of a big city appear all around you, as the flashiness and fussiness of city living starts seep in go the towns you’re riding through.

You notice the big city/country threshold much more clearly on a bike. And it’s always more sudden than you expect, never more so than here. 40 miles of the day was basically more weary dusty looking farm villages much closer in spirit to the miles and miles of outback to the east than the global city just a short hop over the hills to the west.

Illustrative only. Seen
lots and lots of this. Fun

Then bang, cycle routes, twee cafes, food chains, the lot. Not seen anything like this in four weeks. Will get onto why I’ve not charged straight into the city centre screaming “I’m home…..I’ll take a tall skinny mocha quinoa kale cold pressed smoothie to go,” but first lets cover off the last two days.

They have been ying and yang. Yesterday was 100 miles of cycling bliss in the sun-kissed, rolling wheatbelt, whilst today was half the distance and twice the pain, grinding through the hot sticky hills that seal Perth off against the Indian Ocean.

Trusting the weather report I was up late yesterday and not out riding till 07:30. For once laziness paid off. The wind hammered square up my backside all day. It’s like having someone push you for 10 hours. Think the hills really were lower than the day before, but they all felt like a breeze. With villages and small towns every 15 miles, the only thing slowing me up is think I still may be a little traumatised from the Nullabor. Had to stop myself stopping a every shop. And not only because you start to feel wired on that many sugary drinks.

It wasn’t quite as beautiful as Monday, but there is a still that grandeur to this landscape of vast wheat fields fringed with trees. Sure if the wind had been in my face I’d be saying it was bleak, grim and tedious, but with nature’s push, the temperature right down and the sun beaming it was blissful cruising.

Northam pub looking deceptively
nice at 07:30

Was actually glad the farm homestay I’d tried to organise fell through. Was enjoying pushing hard on to the larger town of Northam. That was till I actually got to Northam. First from the slope coming into town got my first view of the hills that would make today such a hot tedious chore, and then there is the town itself. What to say. Close enough to Perth to know it is tired, weary and scruffy, unlike the towns deep in the outback that wear the look with a rural pride. The only, and very tired looking Motel was full, so I was back in the pub rooms.

The Commercial was the least beaten up of a bunch that all looked like they’d gone eight rounds. Inside it was like all rural “hotels” (as the pubs are known). Serving the functions of doss house, pub, cheap café, betting shop, and restaurant all at once, all under strip lights, surrounded by peeling walls.

Doesn't look much, but
those hills killed

The land lady to be fair was lovely. Ashamed to say I made a snap judgement based on her facial tattoos, but once she started talking she had one of the kindest smiles and the most welcoming manner I can remember. You could see she had been quite a looker in her day. Tough as boots with the rowdy customers, but with an air of sadness about her you got the impression was the result of that smile and manner, not in spite of it, which is all the sadder.

Was rather taken by her, even if her description of the room as “beautiful” was wildly wide of the mark. It smelt and looked like the plastic under sheet they’d kindly included, was more a reflection of reality, than an unnecessary precaution. The shower screen was smashed, the TV didn’t work and I have weird bug bites all over my body today. I’ll be glad when places like this are not part of my existence, even if you do see a side of life in those bars, that once you’ve got past your initial prejudices is rich in heart and humour.

Normal life againg, I resisted both and
Maccers. Feel strong

Today by comparison has been mostly gritty, till the glorious end outlined above. Everyone had told me the hills just outside Perth would be tough. They were not exaggerating. It was sharp hill after sharp hill, hour after hour, never giving my shot knees a chance to recover.

Up late and keen to get out of Northam in a hurry, forgot to have breakfast. The first 10 miles was grind your teeth hard running on fumes. First shop I found only had microwave pies. So stocked up on a steak and kidney pie things did improve slightly, but it’s degrees of pain. The temperature was rapidly up pushing the 40C end of the 30s, and the humidity was sapping.

When there was hard shoulder life was tough going, but liveable. Shift down into the granny gear, and just plod up at 5 or 6 mph. However WA has continues to be erratic on where and when they tarmac their shoulders. It would suddenly run out for the odd mil here or there, and my rhythm would be broken and I’d find myself trudging up the dirt beside the road pushing the bike. Walking at this point felt galling. Sure the scenery was fine, but whenever I got the sweat out my eyes not sure I ever remember looking up and being blow away, till the hill down from Mundaring.

First open bike shop in
1,800 miles

May sound silly, but getting to the bottom into the town of Midland and past the first open bike shop since Mildura in Victoria, three weeks ago, suddenly hit me, I really am going to do this. Anything can blow now, I can lose any tools, any spare parts. I’m back in a world where you can walk to the next local bike shop. Whatever happens in the last 20 miles, the mechanical issues with the bike, always the biggest fear, can’t stop me. It is a special kind of relief that only comes from pent up fears days in the making.

So why stop 20 miles short of the finish. After weeks of the weather, mechanical issues, and physical strains dictating your plans, you become a little obsessive about controlling how it all finishes. Just didn’t want to arrive at the beach rushed, flustered and sweaty in the bleached out sunlight of mid afternoon sun or into the storms that are still looking threatening this evening. Sunrise rides are what have been so special about this trip, so that’s how I want it to end. In the cool, crisp morning. Can’t (insert swear word) wait.

Miles: 100 Merredin – Kellerberin - Northam

Miles: 49 – Northam – Mundaring – Guildford

Breakfast

Tuesday – Standard, in the motel café, with a contractor in work overalls who insisted on burping in a pro-actively uncouth way for the whole meal. He did get into a truck that had a huge sticker saying “Effluent Happens” on it, so half forgave him

Wednesday – Steak and Kidney pie, don’t knock it, was rather good at that time in the morning

Lunch

Tuesday – Chicken and Avo baguette in Kellerberrin. Very good

Wednesday – Got all my meals up the spout, so technically two Fanta slushies at 12:00 and a spinach and feta sausage roll in the bakery here at 17:00 (all they had left)

Dinner

Tuesday – Satay chicken fried rice from the Malaysian takeway. Not going to win awards, but reasonable

Wednesday – Caesar salad – Woodbridge pub. Good and the pub is done up for city people. Am a happy boy